Korean Traditional Snack for Travelers: The Ultimate South Korea Walnut Pastry Guide
A Symbol of Korean Travel: Cheonan Walnut Pastry
If you’ve ever traveled around Korea, chances are you’ve spotted these little round pastries at highway rest stops or train stations — Cheonan Hodugwaja (walnut pastries).
Soft on the outside, sweet and nutty inside, this bite-sized treat has been a beloved Korean traditional travel snack for generations.
Though you can find it almost anywhere in the country today, it all began in the 1930s in Cheonan, a small city south of Seoul.
Who would’ve thought that a humble local pastry would grow into one of Korea’s most iconic desserts? Let’s dive into its story.
Back in the 1930s, local bakers in Cheonan experimented with a new dessert — combining red bean paste and American walnuts inside soft cake batter.
It was first sold near Cheonan Station, where travelers on long train rides discovered it as the perfect on-the-go snack.
By the 1960s and 70s, as train travel became popular, hodugwaja from Cheonan became known nationwide as a “must-buy travel snack.”
Later, it spread to expressway rest stops, airports, and cafés across Korea — becoming both a traditional dessert and a travel souvenir loved by locals and visitors alike.
Personally, whenever I’m on a road trip, I can’t resist grabbing a pack of walnut pastries — or even sotteok-sotteok, that classic skewer with sausage and rice cakes — at rest stops.
Even outside of travel, hodugwaja remains one of those comforting snacks that feels like it’s always been part of Korean daily life.
2. Soft Outside, Nutty Inside
What makes hodugwaja special is its balance of textures — soft and tender on the outside, with a sweet, nutty filling inside.
When freshly baked, the outer shell turns slightly crisp while the inside stays moist — a texture Koreans like to call “geot-ba-sok-chok” (crispy outside, soft inside).
I personally love that freshly baked version best.
Even when it cools, the aroma of roasted walnut lingers, giving it a comforting sweetness you won’t get tired of.
Every bakery has its own style, so it’s worth trying a few to find your favorite.
And in recent years, hodugwaja has evolved again — keeping its tradition alive while introducing new flavors and creative fillings.
3. Traditional Filling Comparison
| Filling Type | Flavor Profile | Why It’s Popular | Best Places to Find |
|---|---|---|---|
| Red Bean (Classic) | Soft and mildly sweet | Timeless and traditional | Cheonan, nationwide rest stops |
| Green Tea | Lightly bitter, earthy | Healthy image, trendy café item | Seoul cafés & bakeries |
| Sweet Potato | Rich, cozy sweetness | Autumn favorite | Busan cafés |
| Chocolate Cream | Deep chocolate flavor, smooth | Popular with younger crowd | Seoul & Gangnam dessert shops |
| Butter Cream (Ang-Butter) | Sweet and slightly salty | Premium fusion dessert | Cheonan, national franchises |
4. Where to Buy Them – From Stations to Airports
| Type of Place | Recommended Spots | Highlights | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Around Cheonan Station | Cheonan walnut pastry specialty shops | Made fresh daily, authentic recipes | Birthplace of hodugwaja |
| Highway Rest Stops | Anseong Rest Stop, Cheonan Samgeori Rest Stop | Freshly baked, easy to grab | Perfect for road trips |
| City Cafés & Bakeries | Ikseon-dong, Seongsu-dong (Seoul) | Creative fusion flavors, trendy vibe | Great for tourists |
| Airport Duty-Free Shops | Incheon, Gimpo Airports | Neatly packaged for gifts | Ideal for travelers heading home |
5. Famous Stops for Walnut Pastry Lovers
Even today, Cheonan remains the heart of walnut pastry culture.
Near Cheonan Station, you’ll find long-standing bakeries selling freshly baked pastries with that nostalgic aroma.
Drive along the expressway and you’ll spot hodugwaja stands at Anseong or Cheonan Samgeori Rest Stops, where travelers line up for warm pastries right out of the oven.
In Seoul, you can even find mini hodugwaja or ang-butter versions (red bean + butter) in hip café districts like Ikseon-dong and Seongsu-dong,
where old-school flavors meet modern dessert trends.
6. Modern Fusion Trends: Ang-Butter Craze
The latest craze? Definitely the Ang-Butter Hodugwaja — red bean paste combined with a slice of creamy salted butter.
It turns a humble travel snack into a premium dessert, pairing beautifully with coffee or tea.
Some cafés even go further, adding cheese, cream cheese, or ice cream for a “high-end” twist.
What started as a traditional treat is now embraced by younger generations as a Korean dessert that bridges old and new.
7. Why Travelers Love It
Small, soft, and comforting — hodugwaja perfectly captures the essence of Korean travel snacks.
Sure, convenience stores now offer plenty of trendy K-snacks,
but nothing beats a warm, freshly baked walnut pastry on the road.
It’s the kind of snack that makes you think of Korea long after your trip ends —
and because you can easily find it at airports, it also makes a thoughtful edible souvenir for friends abroad.
8. A Bite of Warmth and Nostalgia
Walnut pastry isn’t just a snack; it’s a piece of Korean emotion.
It carries memories of family road trips, warm conversations, and that feeling of comfort that defines Korean culture.
Born in Cheonan, this little pastry continues to bring generations together —
proving that even the simplest treats can tell the sweetest stories.
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